1. Introduction

From 2003 to 2013, I devoted my life to the revision of twelve books by Alfred Wainwright. Kendal in the Nineteenth Century was not among the twelve because it was a description of the town as it used to be. Nevertheless, I think that it is interesting to compare the nineteenth century town with what it is like in 2025. Here is a description of a walk linking various places featured in the book. In the 1980s, I produced two books of town trails. What follows is much the same thing. In most respects, Kendal is less attractive than it was when the book was produced, but there have been a few improvements, including the planting of flowers at eye level in the town centre. The best time to do this walk is early on a Sunday morning when the streets are quiet.

2. Kirkland

The walk starts at the entrance to the parish church in Kirkland. The illustration on page 10, recognisable by the four pillars on the ground floor, represents the best-preserved part of Kirkland, where virtually every building is unchanged. Turn left into Kirkbarrow Lane, which leaves between the second and third houses on the left in the illustration. Note the word ‘kirk’ in the place-names here, as if we were in Scotland. Here we plunge straight into the heart of old Kendal. Kirkbarrow Lane leads to the scene illustrated on page 17. The door facing us is the entrance to Low Kirkbarrow Lane. Don’t worry if you are discouraged from entering this lane because if you continue along Kirkbarrow Lane, you can look down on it with a typical cottage garden beyond.

Follow Kirkbarrow Lane round a right-hand bend. At the foot of the hill, turn right and left into Cross Lane, right at the next junction and right into the main road. This leads back to the entrance to the parish church. Here, turn sharp left into Church Walk, another charming part of old Kendal, rather like a cathedral close. The name of this path suggests that we are back in England.

The path bends right and passes the former grammar school, which is illustrated on page 24. At the time of writing (May 2025) this in the process of being converted into two dwellings, numbers 9 and 11, Church Walk. A gateway has recently been provided for number 11, but at present number 9 has no front door. The new front door to number 11, with its ornamental hinges, is different from the one in the illustration, but more attractive.

When you come to the river, turn right and then left over Nether Bridge. As you turn onto the bridge, you can see the view depicted on page 7. The white three-story house in the distance is George Romney’s house, which is illustrated on the opposite page. This is unchanged except for the addition of three plaques. At the end of the bridge, turn left along the river. From the junction with Aynam Place, you can see the scene depicted on page 23. The church is unchanged, but the vicarage is completely different. From here you can see where Cock Beck debouches into the River Kent. This stream is shown on the map at the start of the Kirkland section of the book, but this is the only place where it is visible. Soon, Abbot Hall is passed on the left. This is illustrated on page 26 and is unchanged except for new extensions on the far left and far right.

Continue along Aynam Road and turn right into Parr Street, which was named after Katherine Parr, the last wife of Henry VIII. According to Wainwright, she was born in Kendal Castle, but other authorities disagree. The road crosses a hump-backed bridge over a canal that is no longer there. At the top of the hill, go straight on along a stepped path. After the path bends left, there is an interesting display board describing the natural history of this area. At the next junction, bear left along the top of the outer rampart of Kendal Castle, passing a replica of the ancient beacon that once stood in this area. If the weather is clear enough, you can see a group of mountains close together on the left. From left to right, these are Yoke, Ill Bell, Froswick (pronounced frozzic) and Thornthwaite Crag. Further to the left and on its own is the mountain called Red Screes.

At the next junction, turn right. The path leads to an open space in the middle of which is a notice board with information about Kendal Castle. From this area, you can compare the castle with its illustration on page 27. It is largely unchanged except for the addition of two fences, one of which blends with the stone-work and one of which doesn’t.

3. Highgate

From Kendal Castle, retrace your steps as far as the river. Turn right and then left over Jennings Yard Bridge. At the end of the bridge, turn right down some steps and enter the path ahead that follows the right-hand edge of a park. Turn right through the triple archway illustrated on page 27 and right again into Dowkers Lane. Here you can study the backs of the houses in Highgate. After the road bends right and left, turn into the first yard on the left. Notice the large wooden door with long strap hinges. We are now in Dr Mannings Yard, which is illustrated on page 39. Turn right into Highgate and right again into Yard 77. The illustration on page 40 shows the view from beyond the archway looking back. The tall chimney has gone. On emerging from the yard, turn right into Dowkers Lane. Then turn left where the road bends right. Take the first turning on the right, a narrow road. Ignore Kent Place on the right, and turn left at a sign saying ‘29-38 Waterside’. The path curves left through a small park. When you get to the river, turn right for just a few yards and look over the fence to the steps illustrated between pages 35 and 36. The steps are now largely covered in vegetation.

Follow the path north so that the river is on your right. When you come to a road junction, turn left and immediately left again so that you are facing the way you came. Then turn right into Tanners Yard. Ignore an alley on the left. When you reach the first entrance to the car park, the view behind you is illustrated on page 43. The window above the arch has gone. From the second entrance to the car park, the view ahead of you is illustrated on page 42. The sack hoist at the top of the building, to the right of the arch, can still be seen.

When you get to the main street, turn left, and immediately past the HSBC, turn right into Collin Croft. Turn right at the T-junction and left through the archway illustrated on page 52. In my opinion, this is the most beautiful corner of old Kendal and an amazing survival. Walk slowly up the steps, taking in every detail on the way. When you come to a road, turn right. Note the modern stone walls of the houses on the left, which are just as attractive as the older stone walls in the area.

At the next junction, turn left into Low Fellside. From this junction, you can see the area illustrated on page 58, which shows Allhallows Lane before it was widened. The sack hoist below the Town Hall clock is still there, like the one in Tanners Yard. Immediately past the zebra crossing, turn right down some steps and enter another unspoilt part of old Kendal. Turn left down some more steps and right into the Old Shambles. Where the road widen,s the view behind you is portrayed on page 55. The inscription has gone from the facing building, and the stonework is now exposed, which I think makes the building more attractive. The road comes out next to the Fleece Inn, which is illustrated between pages 56 and 57. The five pillars are still there, but the building is now called Ye Olde Fleece Inn. Turn left here and then right into Finkle Street.

4. Stramongate

The junction of Highgate with Finkle Street is illustrated on pages 60 and 61, before the demolition of the Pump Inn. Follow Finkle Street to the junction with Branthwaite Brow, which is illustrated on page 64 and mentioned in the Fellside section. The view behind you is depicted in the illustration on page 59. The two gables in the distance can still be seen. Go straight on into Stramongate. A short distance before you come to the next junction, turn right into Yard 23. Where the yard widens for the second time, the view behind you is depicted on page 68. Note the remains of the two small windows in the building facing you and the old door in the passage. Return to Stramongate, turn right and carry straight on. As you cross Stramongate Bridge, you can see St. George’s Church, which is illustrated on page 75. The two spires and the top stories of the towers have now gone.

Go straight on into Wildman Street. Immediately before you reach Sleddale Hall, turn right into Yard 3, which is illustrated on page 78. This has undergone an extraordinary change. The lower window on the left is overgrown, and the stairs are so overgrown that they are impassable. Return to the road and turn right. On the left is the Castle Dairy, which is illustrated on page 79. It is not only the house that is a remarkable survival: there is a sign outside that still says ‘Admission 1/-’! The two small windows shown on the drawing are still there, as well as an even smaller one on the hidden side of the left wing. There are two more small windows on the far side of the right wing.

Continue along Wildman Street in the same direction and turn left along the front of the County Hotel. Adjoining the hotel is the Masonic Hall, which still bears the inscription ‘St. George’s Schools ‘. This is followed by Albert Buildings, which now houses Kendal Museum and which is illustrated on page 80. The ale stores, which are shown on the map on page 81, are now the Stagecoach bus depot.

5. Stricklandgate

Continue along Station Road as it bends left and becomes Sandes Avenue. Go straight on, crossing the River Kent by the bridge illustrated on page 112. The bridge itself is unchanged, but all the buildings in the background have gone. Ignore Blackhall Road on the left and turn left into Stricklandgate.

Just before the pedestrian crossing, turn left into Yard 89 (Camm’s Yard), which is illustrated on page 109. Stand at the place where the lane narrows and look back. The white houses on the left are still white. The stone house on the left is now white. Surprisingly, there are now beams over the door and window that appear to be very old. This is actually an improvement.

Return to Stricklandgate and turn left. Just past the pedestrian crossing, enter Yard 96 on the right. This is the subject of the classic illustration shown on page 108. The drain and the gutter can still be seen.

Return to Stricklandgate and turn right, passing the museum illustrated on page 97. This is now Stricklandgate House, a centre for voluntary organisations. The arch and the pediment are still there, and so are the six chimney-pots on the right. Then on the left is the Black Hall Brush Factory, which is illustrated on page 96 is now the Bristly Hog Coffee House. The bristly or bristling hog is still there, and so are the two fine chimneys, but the skylight has gone. The dark brown lintels over the windows appear to be old, but, like the lintels in Camm’s Yard, they have appeared since the time of the drawing.

Continue along Stricklandgate and turn left into the Market Place, which is illustrated on page 84. All the facing buildings are unchanged. Return to Stricklandgate and turn into Entry Lane, which is to the right of W.H. Smith’s. Continue along the lane as it becomes wider and then narrower. The top part of the lane is illustrated on page 104. The line of chimney-pots, the half-timbering and the archway in the background are all still there. The steps have been extended downwards since the time of the drawing.

6. Fellside

The top of Entry Lane takes the form of a triangle. Take the right fork. Looking right, from the next junction, you can see Grandy Nook, which is illustrated on page 116 and which has recently been painted bright white. Turn left here and right into Fountain Brow. Now it is clear why this area is known as ‘Fellside’. Ignore Middle Lane on the left and turn right into Rosemary Lane. Just before the end of the lane, turn sharply left up some steps. These lead to the scene illustrated on page 125. This could only be identified because there is nowhere else it can be. The high wall on the right is still there.

After going round a right-hand bend, turn left and then right to the scene illustrated on page 128. Here is an interesting curiosity: two flights of steps curving in different directions and completely ignoring each other. The right-hand flight has now become a road. The diagonal drainpipe and the windows to the right of it show that the drawing on the opposite page was taken from roughly the same place. This reminds me of the pavements in the lower part of Branthwaite Brow that still ignore each other. Follow the left-hand flight of steps (Fell Brow), which leads to the place where Serpentine Road and Queens Road converge.

Cross over the road and enter the wood, passing to the right of a sign saying ‘Welcome to Serpentine Woods’. The path bends right and left. There follows a quick succession of junctions to the right, left and right again. Keep straight on until you come to the summer house illustrated on page 130. The porch has gone, but there is still a finial on the top of the roof. Inside is an interesting notice board that can be seen from the doorway.

Keep straight on until you come to a junction shaped like the letter ‘Y’ and bear left. Then continue straight on until you see the stone pedestal of the Time Gun illustrated on page 130. The gun itself and the fence have now gone, but a green plaque has been added, and there is an entrance at the rear.